Historical places – Red River Ranch https://redriverranch.com Capitol Reef Luxury Lodging Wed, 27 Nov 2024 19:45:53 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 The Incredible Horseshoe Canyon https://redriverranch.com/2024/11/09/the-incredible-horseshoe-canyon/ Sat, 09 Nov 2024 19:41:07 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=7321 Art Museum of the Wild

Southern Utah is full of wonders. Some are pretty famous, like the towering cliffs of Zion Canyon or the iconic Delicate Arch of Arches, but some are largely unknown. And one of these lesser-known wonders is Horseshoe Canyon on the outer regions of Canyonlands National Park. It’s one of our favorite places in the whole state. So let’s talk a little bit about is, what makes it so cool, and what you should know in order to visit Horseshoe Canyon, the Art Museum of the Wild.

A view of hiking in Horseshoe Canyon

Photo by Patrick Hendry via unsplash.com

What Makes Horseshoe Canyon Special?

Horseshoe Canyon is a scenic canyon, in a very beautiful part of Southern Utah. That alone would merit a recommendation from us here at the Lodge. But what really makes this place so amazing is the extensive amount of American Indian petroglyphs that cover the walls of the canyon. It contains some of the most significant pictographs in North America. It’s like stepping through time and seeing how the native peoples of Southern Utah lived, what they valued, and what they created, in a place that is largely unchanged after all these millennia. It’s a really great, and awe-inspiring experience.

The Horseshoe Canyon trail is approximately 6 miles round-trip, and is considered moderately difficult. As you continue into the canyon you will come across various “galleries” of rock art. The best one being “The Great Gallery.” (That’s it’s official name.) It has the most images per square foot, and includes many life-sized human figures. This is the highlight of the hike.

Figures painted on a sandstone cliff

Photo by Alex Moliski via unsplash.com

What to Known Before You Visit

Horseshoe Canyon is located on the far edges of Canyonlands National Park, between the towns of Hanksville and Green River. And although it is part of Canyonlands, it’s actually easier to access from the other side, by going through Capitol Reef National Park (and we’ve got some ideas for you, if you want add a few days in Capitol Reef to your itinerary.) You can see where to access Horseshoe Canyon here on Google Maps. The turnoff is clearly marked on Highway 24. So take that exit and continue for about 30 miles on a graded dirt road until you reach the canyon.

There is no camping permitted in Horseshoe Canyon. You will need to find accommodations elsewhere, or camp on nearby BLM land. A pit toilet is available at the trailhead of the canyon. There are no other services in the immediate vicinity, so make sure you have adequate amounts of fuel, food, and especially water when going to check out Horseshoe Canyon.

During the spring and fall every Saturday, there is a ranger-lead tour of Horseshoe Canyon. These start at 9 a.m. There is no reservation system, it’s first-come-first-serve. And groups are limited to 20 people. If you can, we recommend going on one of these tours, since the rangers can give you lots of detailed information about this amazing place.

Also, please don’t try to deface or remove anything from the galleries of Horseshoe Canyon. You will go to prison. The state of Utah and the federal government are very strict about this. And more importantly, you will destroy a historical site of immersible value.

For more information about Horseshoe Canyon, you should contact the Hans Flat Ranger Station at (435) 719–2218. Or check out the official website here.

On the rim looking down into horseshoe canyon

Photo by Ahmer Kalam via unsplash.com

Go See Something Incredible

Horseshoe Canyon is a breathtaking and sacred place. You should go visit it the next time you’re planning a Southern Utah trip. We think you’ll love it!

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It’s Halloweekend! https://redriverranch.com/2023/10/26/its-halloweekend/ Fri, 27 Oct 2023 01:26:58 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=7012 Spooky Fun Places!

Halloween is on Tuesday (happy Halloween, everybody!) so we’re thinking about all sorts of spooky things. And believe it or not, there are a lot of Halloween-esque locations in Southern Utah. Places that seem just a little too unreal, like eery rock formations and forgotten settlements. Let’s get scared! And visit some of the spookiest places in Southern Utah!

Hoodoos in the Goblin Valley basin

Photo by Yifu Wu via unsplash.com

Hoodoos and Goblins

Hoodoos are some of the strangest rock that you will find anywhere on earth. And Southern Utah has a lot of them! The sandstone pillars are shaped by the forces of erosion into truly unique, and sometimes unsettling, spires and knobs. Visiting them, especially at night, is a great way to celebrate Halloween. Here’s three locations to check out:


1. Bryce Canyon –
If you know anything about hoodoos, you already knew this would be on our list. It is the most famous hoodoo destination in the world, after all. The Amphitheater in Bryce is packed full of the strange and the surreal. Check out our guide for what to do in Bryce Canyon. There is tons to explore for a great weekend of Halloween fun! And you can find Bryce’s location here on Google Maps.


2. Goblin Valley –
This is one of our favorite state parks in Utah. It’s actually quite similar to Bryce Canyon, but it’s a smaller in area, and the hoodoos are more tightly packed into the basin. The hoodoos are also a little shorter and stumpier than those found at Bryce, more like hobgoblins – hence the name! We’ve written some helpful details about Goblin Valley here. And you can find it here on Google Maps.


3. Wahweap Hoodoos –
These might be the weirdest, the most wild, and the spookiest hoodoos in Southern Utah. Seriously, they are even nicknamed “the white ghosts!” They are also very remote, so they require a bit of adventuring to get there. You can read about how to find them here on this post. But once you find them, you’ll see a grouping of vertical white pinnacles topped with odd purple rocks. Super scary! Here’s the location of the Wahweap Hoodoos on Google Maps.

The ghost town of Grafton, Utah

Photo by Nathan Atkinson via unsplash.com

Ghostly Towns

So, in addition to all the strange rocks and hidden hoodoos, Southern Utah is also home to a bunch of abandoned settlements – ghost towns! For any number of reasons these towns were left behind by their inhabitants. Sometimes the local mine went bust, sometimes floods or droughts forced people to relocate, and occasionally populations just dwindled in a certain areas. But whatever the reason, the towns that these people built (or at least some of the buildings) remain to be explored. If you want a slice of history with your Halloween, go check out some ghost towns! Here are a couple of our favorites:


1. Grafton –
The iconic film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid includes a scene that was filmed in the ghost town of Grafton. (He rides the bicycle around the schoolhouse.) Grafton was founded in 1859, but adverse weather, and conflicts with the American Indians forced them to move. The site is maintained and monitored, but you can still visit. Here’s a link to the official page, and here is the location on Google Maps.


2. Paria –
Paria is one of the most scenic ghost towns in Southern Utah. It is situated in the high desert country amid red sandstone hills. The town was founded in 1870 and was abandoned in 1929. It was partially rebuilt during the 1950’s as a film set, and was the filming location for many western films. Flooding and fires damaged and destroyed some of the sets, but it’s still cool to visit. Bonus: there’s actually a couple of lone hoodoos nearby. Here’s the location on Google Maps.

A pumpkin on grass

Photo by Matt Eberlevia unsplash.com

Treat or Treat!

That’s our list! But don’t worry if you can’t make it these locations this weekend. No matter when you visit, Halloween or not, you’re in for a treat! C’mon, it’s Southern Utah, even when it’s spooky, it’s still scary good! Happy Halloween from the Lodge at Red River Ranch!

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Learning in Capitol Reef https://redriverranch.com/2023/06/20/learning-in-capitol-reef/ Tue, 20 Jun 2023 21:19:35 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=6933 Knowledge is Power

Capitol Reef is not just a fantastic place to see the beauty of Southern Utah, it’s also a fantastic place to learn a lot of new things! Throughout the year, there are ranger-lead programs that can teach you about everything from geology to astronomy. So let’s look at what is on offer, and how you can sneak a little learning into your vacation.

Petroglyphs carved into the rock walls of Capitol Reef

Photo by iStockPhoto.com

Current Ranger Programs

So here’s the lineup for 2023! Visit this calendar page on the Capitol Reef website to see all the details about each of these events. And remember these are totally free, and you don’t need any kind of reservation. Just be at the right place when they start!

We’ve got Archeology Talks! Every day at 11am. Meet at the Petroglyph Panel boardwalk and learn about cultures that called this place home. The program lasts for 30 minutes

Geology Talks are presented every day at 3pm. Meet at the Fruita Campground Amphitheater, near the C loop of the campground and the Fremont River Trail. (It’s not difficult to find, it’s the largest structure in the campgrounds.) Discover the geologic story of Capitol Reef National Park. The program lasts for 30 minutes.

This one is our favorite! Evening Talks are available every evening at 8:45pm. Meet at the Fruita Campground Amphitheater. (Same place as above.) And explore a variety of topics in depth. Lasts about 45 – 60 minutes.

The Astronomy Program is presented every weekend on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Meet at the Gifford House picnic tables at 10pm. The presentation lasts about an hour (sometimes a little longer). Tour the night sky with the naked eye before exploring the cosmos by telescope. Bring a red flashlight.

It’s worth double-checking with the Visitor Center if these events are still scheduled for when you are planning on being in Capitol Reef. Sometimes there are unforeseen events – like severe weather, or an absent ranger – that cause the talks or programs to be cancelled. So check here, and just call the day of to confirm. Here’s the Visitor Center’s number: 435–425–3791

The Capitol Reef Visitor Center

Photo by iStockPhoto.com

More Ways to Learn

Speaking of the Visitors Center, there a couple of great additional ways you can learn about Capitol Reef and all its complexities. And first is at the Visitor Center! The whole Visitor Center has recently been renovated, and the exhibits have been updated and expanded. This is a great way to get an overview of the history and timeline of Capitol Reef, from the eons of time in which it was formed, to the native inhabitants, to the recent events that lead to its inception as a national park. You can even grab the NPS Audio Description Tours mobile app and have all the exhibits narrated to you! So be sure to stop by the Visitor Center!

Second is the Ripple Rock Nature Center. This building is located just a minute or two south of the Visitor Center, and is used to host outdoor activities for kids of all ages. The programs are usually hosted by Utah Valley University and are a great way for your children to discover a range of topics. Check the calendar for schedules (and filter by “Children’s Programs”) to see what is available when you are visiting.

Last one! Stop by the Gifford House! It’s a very cute, little, pioneer home that has been remarkably well preserved. It functions as a sort of museum/baked-goods shop today, and it’s a great way to see how the Mormon settlers of the region lived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. There are original and era-appropriate furnishings inside and lots of information about the Giffords. So check it out! And don’t forget to by some ice-cream while you’re there!

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Fremont Indian State Park https://redriverranch.com/2022/11/14/fremont-indian-state-park-2/ Tue, 15 Nov 2022 00:26:00 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=5158 Another Little Gem

We at the Lodge love discovering little gems in Southern Utah – the places that most people drive right past, or that are a little tricky to get to. And we love suggesting these gems on our blog, so that you can discover a Southern Utah that’s off-the-beaten path. So, with that in mind, here’s a little state park that nobody seems to know about – the Fremont Indian State Park and Museum.

A tipi in the foreground and a view of I-70 in the background

Photo by The Dye Clan via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

What You’ll Find

As the name suggests, this state park focuses on preserving the history of the Fremont Native American tribe that dwelt in this region. (And also some of the other tribes in the more distant past.) It’s got a pretty impressive little museum, with lots of artifacts – pottery, arrowhead, textiles, tools – from the area. The park also has outdoor exhibits. There are several re-created dwellings that let you see how the Fremont people lived.

But you can’t leave the Fremont Indian State Park until you’ve explored some of its trails. Because the trails lead you to the coolest part of the park – all the rock art. There are tons of petroglyphs and pictographs everywhere. And, as you hike around, you’ll get to see plenty of it. (One of the canyons that you can explore is actually designated as an outdoor museum.)

Rock art in the park

Photo by James St. John via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

More Details

The Fremont Indian State Park is located just outside of Richfield Utah, on Interstate–70. Google Maps location here. It was actually during the construction of the Interstate that crews came across the artifacts currently stored at the park. According to its website, it was the largest known Fremont Indian Village to be uncovered. And so the state park was created to preserve its history.

There is are two campgrounds at the park, the Castle Rock Campground and the Sam Stowe Campground. You can reserve spots at reserveamerica.com.

There’s more to learn and discover about the Fremont Indian State Park and Museum. You can read a more in-depth version of its history and mission here. And, of course, you can always stop by for a visit and see it all for yourself.

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Grafton the Ghost Town https://redriverranch.com/2021/03/27/grafton-the-ghost-town/ Sat, 27 Mar 2021 19:13:33 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=6058 There Be Ghost Towns in Them Hills

Southern Utah is mostly desert. Which is spectacular to look at, but it can be a hard place to live. Before the conveniences of modern life, several communities in Utah fell victim to the harsh environment. In fact, Utah boasts of having more than a hundred “ghost towns.” (Although, most of these aren’t much to look at, just a single building marking a failed community.) Perhaps the most famous – and certainly the best preserved – of these ghost towns is Grafton, Utah.

The remains of Grafton can be found in Washington County, a little ways south of Zion National Park.

Abandoned buildings stand alone in the desert

Photo by Nathan Atkinson via unsplash.com

A Brief History

In 1859 and 1860 Mormon pioneers attempted to grow cotton in the desert area near present day Saint George. They founded a town called Wheeler along the Virgin River. But in 1862, a massive weeks-long flood washed the town of Wheeler away. Literally. The residents relocated about a mile upriver, and started a new town – Grafton. Attempts to cultivate cotton were met with continuous disaster. More flooding, then irrigation problems, then internal discord made life in the Grafton community difficult. When the Black Hawk War began, residents began to flee to less-isolated towns, most notably Rockville. After an end to hostilities, some residents returned. But by 1890 only four families remained in Grafton. Surprisingly, the last residents didn’t fully abandon the town until 1944.

Grafton Today

Grafton has benefited from preservation efforts of the Grafton Historical Partnership, which receives funds from a variety of private and public sources. As such, it remains in excellent condition. Which is one of the reasons that Grafton has been photographed so extensively. (You’ve probably seen it in the film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.) If you want to visit the town for yourself, you totally can. And you should, it’s a pretty surreal experience. Just remember that a lot of effort goes into keeping Grafton looking good. Be careful and respectful of the existing buildings and the history they represent. It’s the right thing to do. Plus… the site is under 24-hour surveillance.

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Filmed in Utah https://redriverranch.com/2020/06/19/filmed-in-utah-2/ Fri, 19 Jun 2020 17:43:00 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=5383 Familiar Scenery

The other day we made a Facebook post about Monument Valley, and how it became the face of the Old West, thanks in large part to two John Ford films that where shot there. And that got us thinking about all the other famous movies and television episodes that have been filmed in Southern Utah. So we started making a list – this list – of some of the most famous ones. (And we’ll update it every once in a while with new content.) Feel free to visit these locations on your next tour of Southern Utah, and peek behind the movie-magic curtain.

Road runs toward the monoliths of Monument Valley

Photo by Halie West via unsplash.com

Monument Valley

Let’s start at the beginning. John Ford made The Searches and Stagecoach, his two most famous Westerns, in Monument Valley. Which, as we mentioned, cemented the open desert and towering sandstone monoliths as the backdrop of the Old West. After Ford made the area famous, hundreds of shoots took place in Monument Valley. Here’s a few of the most famous –

  • Fort Apache
  • How the West Was Won
  • 2001: A Space Odyssey
  • Once Upon a Time in the West
  • Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade
  • Disney’s The Lone Ranger

You can read about all of these and lots, lots more on this Wikipedia page. And you can find Monument Valley here, located on the Utah-Arizona border.

Sunset illuminates the canyon walls of Canyonlands National Park

Photo by Rich Martello via unsplash.com

Dead Horse Point and Canyonlands

The area in and around Dead Horse Point State Park and Canyonlands National Park look a lot like the Grand Canyon. And whenever a film needed wide, red canyons to capture the look of the west, it usually ended up being filmed here. In Thelma and Louise it was the setting of the climactic ending, in Con-Air most of the aerial scenes take place above this area, in 127 Hours it’s the canyon in which James Franco’s character loses an arm, and in HBO’s Westworld, it’s the setting for a futuristic-robot-cowboy-murder-theme-park headquarters. (You can see our list of other Westworld filming locations here.)

Canyonlands and Dead Horse Point and are located here and here.

The sandstone hoodoos and dunes of Goblin Valley

Photo by Michael Tuszynsk via unsplash.com

Lots of Other Locations

There have been a lot of other films shot all over Southern Utah, in lots of other locations. Here’s some that might be worth checking out.

Disney’s John Carter of Mars had scenes shot in Lake Powell. We’ve done a complete list of John Carter filming locations, which you can check out here.

Galaxy Quest, remember Galaxy Quest? It was filmed in Goblin Valley State Park.

Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid was filmed in and around Zion National Park. The gang hides out with Katherine Ross’s schoolteacher in the little deserted town of Grafton, Utah. Grafton is one of Utah’s most famous ghost towns, which we’ve written about here.

John Wayne’s massive flop, The Conqueror was filmed in Snow Canyon State Park, just outside of Zion National Park and Saint George, Utah. It’s a horrible, horrible movie, but has some great scenery.

A film production on a set in the desert

Photo by Chris Murray via unsplash.com

More, More, More!

If you’re a film buff looking for even more “Made in Utah” pictures, check out this site from the Moab to Monument Valley Film Commission. It’s got a pretty good, but not quite comprehensive list of movies and TV episodes filmed in Southern Utah.

Film Musuem

Last thing. There’s a dedicated film museum for the biggest productions that have taken place in Southern Utah. You can stop by and the history and magic of past films, complete with memorabilia, original set pieces, and collectables. Check out the museum’s official page here, and find it on the map here. We at Red River Ranch hope you have a great time tracking down and visiting some of these iconic film locations here in Southern Utah. And that’s a wrap!

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Canyonlands: In-depth https://redriverranch.com/2020/02/19/canyonlands-in-depth/ Wed, 19 Feb 2020 19:40:37 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=5265 Let’s Look at Canyonlands

We’ve done Arches, we’ve done Bryce, now it’s time to do Canyonlands! As you know, we’re starting this year off with a series of posts that deep-dive into each of the national parks. Obviously, we’ve written about the parks before, a lot. But we at the Lodge at Red River Ranch thought we’d write about them again, just in case we missed anything the first dozen times. So here we go – ladies and gentlemen, Canyonlands National Park: In-depth!

A cliff view of Canyonlands National Park

Welcome to Canyonlands. Photo by Dann Petty via unsplash.com

The Visitor Center

As with any other national park, you gotta check out the visitor center before you really get going. And Canyonlands has not one, but two, visitor centers. There’s the main center, the Island in the Sky Visitor Center, and the Needles Visitor Center. (The centers have strange hours in wintertime, just so you’re aware. You can see if they’re open here on their site.) The visitor centers are always fun places to hang out, there have cool exhibits and films, but you’re mostly here for information. So grab a trail guide, buy a map, and talk to the rangers about your plans. They always have good suggestions and recommendations. Also, some pretty cool programs too.

A rain storm seen from a distance over a muted desert

An immense space. Photo by Nick Dunlap via unsplash.com

Three Regions

Canyonlands is a big park. So big in fact, that they decided to section it into three unique districts: the Island in the Sky, the Needles, and the Maze. Most visitors spend their time in the Island in the Sky. Which makes sense, Canyonlands is not quite as developed as some of it’s more popular cousins (since it’s actually the least visited of all the national parks in Utah) and Island in the Sky is where most of the infrastructure is located. And we agree. You should probably spend most of your time there. But there is also some great stuff in the Needles District. And if you can, you really need to drive the White Rim Road! But for now, let’s do some hiking…

Mesa Arch with the sun shining behind

Mesa Arch. Photo by John Fowler via unsplash.com

The Trails

Island in the Sky –

  • Mesa Arch – this is the big one, the most popular spot in the whole park. And when you’re there, you’ll understand why, it’s a tough view to beat: a sweeping desert vista hundreds of feet below you, framed by a massive arch. It’s only a short, half-mile roundtrip hike from the parking lot to Mesa Arch, so it’s perfect for even the most reluctant hiker.
  • Grand View Point – another popular trail is Grand View Point. It’s a fairly easy, one-and-a-half mile roundtrip hike to a stunning overlook to a canyon drop-off. It’s a little bit like the Grand Canyon, only without nearly as many people.
  • Murphy Point – This might actually be our favorite hike in the park. It really gives you an idea of the vastness of the whole region. There is nothing but canyons, and buttes, and open desert for as far as you can see. Candlestick Tower can be seen from the end of the trail. The whole thing is about 3.5-miles long.

The Needles –

  • Roadside Ruin – not so much a trail, as a pit stop to see some pretty great ruins. It’s only a 20-minute walk roundtrip, so it’s worth taking the time to see the tower. Canyonlands has this page to give you some historical context.
  • Cave Spring – ok, ok, this is another short hike to see a cool historical site. But this time it’s a cowboy camp! This trail is also easy, and only takes 45-minutes to hike. Check out the Canyonlands page on this one too.
  • Slickrock Foot Trail – this is a great hike that gives you a chance to immerse yourself in the desert scenery. It leads to great views of Big Spring Canyon. It’s a moderately easy 2.5-mile trek, and should only take a couple hours to complete.

The dramatic switchbacks of the White Rim Road as seen at sunset

The switchbacks of the White Rim Road. Photo by Nate F via unsplash.com

White Rim Road

We’ve talked about the White Rim Road before, in great detail. So we’ll just say that it’s probably the single greatest road you can drive in Canyonlands, and maybe even in all of Southern Utah. It’s 100-miles of primitive, gravel road that unlocks the best scenery in the national park. It’s got lots of excitement, loads of good hiking spots, and plenty of memories-to-be-made.

The Nitty Gritty

As of this writing, Canyonlands costs $30 to enter in a single vehicle. It’s got two campgrounds, one in Needles, on in Island in the Sky. And you can, of course, check out the official site for lots more good and useful info!

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The Gifford House History https://redriverranch.com/2019/04/09/the-gifford-house-history/ Tue, 09 Apr 2019 18:29:27 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=4944 A Quick History Lesson

So, as you probably know, Capitol Reef has a handful of old buildings throughout the main section of the park. Most of them are located in the (now-defunct) town of Fruita. The residents of Fruita may be gone, but the history of the place is preserved in these structures (and also in the orchards, but we’ve written about that over here) and no building is as cool in Capitol Reef as the Gifford House. So, in case you’ve always wanted to know more about this classic building, here’s a quick history lesson:

Giffords in Fruita

In 1908, Calvin Pendleton built the house, which he lived in with his family until 1928. Then the Giffords moved in. They expanded, added a kitchen, a bathroom, and a utility room. They even put in a carport in 1954. The family held ownership of the property all the way until 1969. (Running water and electricity where added throughout the ownership, but for much of the time, the family made-do without them.)

While living in Fruita, the Giffords raised most of their own food. Small livestock, like chickens and ducks, hogs and sheep, and a dairy cow, where kept nearby. They also ranched cattle in the open plains of the South Desert. All the produce they ate was grown in their garden and in their orchards. Preserved foods for the winters, all the canned, bottled, fermented, smoked, and dried goods, where all kept under the house, in the root cellar. Since they where so far removed from other communities, the families living in Fruita – including the Giffords – had to provide most things for themselves. This built a strong sense of community among the residents there. At its zenith, the community would have lots of social activities, like quilting parties and dances. And they where always around to help each other get by…

A photo of the icon barn, near the Gifford House

Photo via unsplash.com

End of an Era

Which is why when families started leaving the area, it was so hard for those who remained to manage. Eventually too many people moved out, and the community of Fuita collapsed. A few “die-hard” individuals stayed until Capitol Reef became a monument in the seventies, but the Giffords had packed-it-in by 1969.

Today the Gifford Home is a museum and shop that preserves the life story of the family and their rural farm. We at the Lodge recommend visiting to experience the history, and to buy some of the homemade goodies that are for sale.

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Bears Ears and Beyond https://redriverranch.com/2019/02/06/bears-ears-and-beyond/ Wed, 06 Feb 2019 01:16:46 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=4863 In Search of History

There’s so much to learn about Southern Utah. The history of this part of the western United States is incredibly rich – especially in regards to the native tribes that lived here. So image that you want to discover first-hand the Native American history of Southern Utah, where do you go? Lucky for you, we at the Lodge know exactly where you should go – Bears Ears National Monument and the surrounding area.

Bears Ears National Monument

Bears Ears National Monument gets a lot of press these days. It’s creation, and subsequent reduction, has become a political battleground (which we’ve talked about before) but we’re here for the history and not the politics.

The Bears Ears area is sacred land to several Native American groups. And throughout the years the various tribes, in various languages, all titled the place with the same moniker – Hoon’Naqvut, Shash Jáa, Kwiyagatu Nukavachi, Ansh An Lashokdiwe – or in English, the Bears Ears. The name specifically refers to two prominent sandstone bluffs that have a similar shape and which, with a little imagination, kind of look like ears. Although early white settlers had a different name for them – Sixshooter Peaks.

The area in and around the Bears Ears Monument has a lot of really cool history. There are several locations which provide great examples of cliff dwellings. You can stop by a couple of museum displays, and you can find petroglyphs all over the place. But mostly, you can experience a wild and unspoiled wilderness, almost unchanged since the first native peoples came to it.

Side Note:
Bears Ears National Monument is relatively undeveloped, so be prepared for backcountry hiking and primitive roads and services in the monument. Camping is available at various sites. Check here for the most up-to-date information.

Indian Creek Corridor and Newspaper Rock

Start with Indian Creek Corridor. It’s a fantastic scenic drive that connects the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park and Moab. A trip down and back is 36 miles, but due to road conditions, will take a couple of hours to complete. You’ll find the turn off to Newspaper Rock clearly marked. Newspaper Rock is one of the largest panels of Native American rock art in the western United States. You’ve got to see it.

The cliff dwelling known as the House on Fire

The House on Fire. Photo by PDTillman via Wikimedia Commons

Mule Canyon’s House on Fire

Mule Canyon is a remote canyon which has several Native American ruins, most notably the “House on Fire.” (The sandstone really does make it look like it’s on fire.) The trail through the canyon is fairly easy, but the location is pretty secluded. Also, if you have time, check out nearby Cave Tower. Mule Canyon is a great way to get a sense of how the ancient inhabitants of the area lived.

One of the ruins at Hovenweep National Monument covered in snow

Hovenweep National Monument. Photo by Larry Lamsa via Wikimedia Commons

Hovenweep National Monument

Maybe the best collection of Native American dwellings in the Bears Ears area is at the Hovenweep National Monument. There you’ll find six different Puebloan villages in the area, all with their own history and mystery. The name “Hovenweep” comes from the Ute word meaning “deserted valley” – from all the abandoned ruins that dot the valley.

Stop by the Visitor Center first to get your bearings, and to look at the artifacts on display. Then go explore the various ruins. Our favorite is the Square Tower group of dwellings, but you should explore all of the six village groups.

The stunning landscape of the Valley of the Gods

The Valley of the Gods. Photo by John Fowler via Wikimedia Commons

Valley of the Gods

Finally, you should make the drive through the Valley of the Gods. It’s a spectacular valley that straddles the lines between Bears Ears and Monument Valley National Monuments. And – as you can imagine given its location – the sandstone formations are stunning. The road through the Valley of the Gods connects Cedar Mesa to the town of Mexican Hat. There is a particularly breath-catching switchback down a 1200-foot cliff. We’re pretty sure you’ll never forget it.

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Grand Gulch Exploration https://redriverranch.com/2018/08/29/grand-gulch-exploration/ Thu, 30 Aug 2018 02:09:45 +0000 https://redriverranch.com/?p=4684 Museum in the Rocks

So you’ve probably heard about Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado. We’ve written about it here before. It’s the park with all the Native American cliff dwellings, remember? You can walk among the city ruins of the these ancient peoples, soak in the history, and admire the view from the cliff sides. Mesa Verde is very cool and you should definitely check it out. What you might not know, however, is that there are cliff dwelling all across Southern Utah. And one of the very best sites is the Anasazi ruins in Grand Gulch.

Ancient ruins

Photo by Paul Ewing via unsplash.com

Grand Gulch

Grand Gulch is located in the Cedar Mesa Special Recreation Management Area, which is managed by the BLM. It is a stunningly beautiful canyon with many passages in and out. The whole length of the canyon (52-miles) is dotted with amazing Native American archeological wonders – pottery, petroglyphs, pictographs, and of course, cliff dwellings. As you wander up the canyon, you will see this dwellings high above you. Some of them you will be able to access. And some will leave you scratching your head, wondering how the inhabitants ever managed to get up there.

Worth the Hike

Grand Gulch is super remote. And to us, this is part of the charm of the place. In Mesa Verde, you have to compete with crowds. And all the tours through the dwellings are guided, so you can’t set your own pace. Here in Grand Gulch, you can explore at your leisure, with no one bumping into you.

If you are planning on hiking into Grand Gulch, you need a permit. Register with the BLM in Monticello, the Kane Gulch Ranger Station, or at the Trailhead Visitor Box. That way if you get lost, somebody will come looking for you. (Also, don’t get lost!) Be sure to take all the necessary safety precautions before going on any long desert hike.

The trailhead location can be found here on Google Maps.

The official BLM website for Grand Gulch is here.

Be Respectful

It should go without saying that you should be super respectful of the art and artifacts that you find in Grand Gulch. Descendants of the Anasazi people still occasionally visit for ritualistic reasons. So don’t break, collect, or mark anything!

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